I promised a post on the knobs I used for the Play Kitchen I made for a friend’s little girl. If you want to relive or read those posts, here is Part 1, Part 2 and Part 3. Otherwise, I detail my hunt for realistic knobs as well as how I attached them to the cabinet after the jump.
Before I found the cabinet, I was looking for knobs. I probably spent the most time trying to find them, not to mention trying to figure out how to attach them so they would work.
I found the green timer here. I had a blue one in my classroom years ago, and I knew it was magnetic. (They have it in different colors in case you’re looking for a timer.) I wasn’t sure how I was going to attach it, but I knew the oven had to have a timer!
When it arrived, I turned it over and took off the screw on the back. The screw held on a metal plate that the magnet was glued to. The awesome news was that the back of the timer was metal as well, so I screwed the metal plate onto the cabinet. The timer is now removable. My friend reports that she often finds the timer far away from the actual play kitchen at the end of the day.
The oven knob was purchased here. It was the smallest oven knob I could find that had all the official markings on it. When it arrived, I was so excited about the size, but was completely stumped on how I was going to attach it. The day I went to the hardware store to figure out attachments, I walked down every aisle and looked at everything. I ran across this rotary dimmer switch. (This is just the package.)
I pulled off the knob and was hoping the post would just magically come out of the rest of this contraption, but no such luck. Plus, I wanted to keep whatever part of the mechanism that makes that clicking sound when you first turn the knob. That was a completely unexpected bonus!
So I used a variety of tools and took it all apart and ended up with this. Notice the white round thingy? That’s the part that makes the clicking sound!
The white cylindrical piece (aka “white round thingy”) needed to be embedded in the cabinet so just the post stuck out enough for the knob. It had a depth of about 3/8″ and the facing was 1/2″ thick. Notice the notches? I decided to use those notches as a way to keep the whole thing from rotating in the wood. I used a 1″ spade drill bit and drilled a 3/8″ hole in the facing prior to painting.
For the sink knobs, I used water spicket knobs that you can pick up at any hardware store. I used these Chicken Head knobs that are used on amplifiers and stomp-boxes (?) for the burner knobs.
For both of these, I used a threaded rod similar to this one, cut in lengths that stuck out just enough for the knobs. On the threaded rod inside the cabinet, I used two nuts tightened against each other. When you use two nuts instead of one, you can still turn the rod without the nut coming loose.
Any questions? Post a comment, and I’ll reply.